Monday, March 23, 2015

Lastres, Luanco, & Llanes: Highlights of the Eastern Coast of Asturias

Llanes, Spain
Llanes sunset
Pastoral scenes of grazing cows, quaint fishing villages, cinematic landscapes featuring terrifying mountains, and weathered cliffs punctuated by secret beaches: the coast of Asturias in northern Spain really has it all, and walking the Camino del Norte pilgrimage would give you only an introduction to what the northern coast is all about.

After road-tripping through the highlights of Cantabria (a house by Gaudí, Spain’s “prettiest” village, and prehistoric cave art) and the wonders of Picos de Europa National Park, it was time to pivot east to Asturias and check out a handful of famous coastal villages. There’s a lot to see on the Asturian coast, but we decided to limit ourselves to the towns of Lastres, Luanco, and Llanes.

Lastres

Lastres, Spain
The View to end all views
First stop: Lastres (also called Llastres in the Asturian language). Advertised as merely “one of” the prettiest villages in Spain, Lastres blew this understatement out of the water. I was first inspired to take a brief pitstop here after seeing Christine in Spain’s beautiful photographs of this town that hangs precariously off the hillside.

Lastres, Spain
Pretty petunias everywhere
It was a little difficult getting that postcard-perfect view, though, since we initially entered town at sea level. The sun was shining on the narrow switchbacks, we had the endless ocean to our right and clay-roofed houses to our left, and folks were out enjoying a pre-dinner drink on terrace cafés…safe to say it felt like we had stumbled into an Italian fragrance commercial.

Once the stoplight changed to green, we slowly crept up the one-way road to the top of the hill and found space to park near the Mirador de San Roque, the lookout point where I captured one of my most popular Instagrams to date.

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Confession: Why I Can’t Stay in Spain Forever

This past Thursday, people on the Facebook groups for language assistants in Spain began posting elatedly that they had heard back from the Spanish government about getting placed in a region for the 2015-2016 school year. The placements started rolling in: Andalucía, Madrid, Castilla y León, and even an odd first-year getting placed alongside the priority renewals. I always enjoy the exciting atmosphere in the groups during this time of the year, as everyone is either simply euphoric at the opportunity to work in Spain or thrilled that they finally got assigned in their dream region.

Magnolias in the Parque do Paxonal
This begs the question: are you renewing for another year, Trevor? I know a lot of my followers are wondering if they should expect to continue learning for another year about Spain’s under-appreciated region of Galicia, its language, food, and villages; one more year living vicariously in Santiago de Compostela; yet another year getting to know Spain’s rich history and stunning architecture.

After three years working as an English language assistant in bilingual elementary schools, though, my time in Spain is drawing to a close. Once my contract ends on May 31st, I’ll have one last month to spend in this country before flying back to Dallas at the end of June. I haven’t renewed for the 2015-2016 school year and don’t have plans to transfer to any of the other similar, private English teaching programs.

These past three school years have been the best years of my life: I became fluent in Spanish (and learned Galician along the way); I traveled broadly—across southern and western Europe—and deeply, crossing off 14 of Spain’s 17 regions; I moved out of my parents’ house (if only for nine-month stretches) and learned how to cook for myself, from scratch; I gained practical, real-world experience teaching English, working in another country, and speaking another language; I continued to improve my writing skills by publishing twice weekly on this blog and pitching guest posts on other websites; and I made lifelong friends both Spanish and expat.

But the thing is, I’m ready to go home.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Hiking in Spain’s Picos de Europa National Park

One of my favorite things about the U.S. is our country’s rich heritage of natural monuments, from Arizona’s Grand Canyon to the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. I grew up taking family road trips out west to see the national parks and always hopped at the opportunity to go camping in The Natural State with my college’s Outdoor Rec program.

Picos de Europa National Park
Dusk in the Cares River Gorge
Apart from Galicia’s Cíes Islands and the Praia das Catedrais beach, my travels in Spain have been mostly limited to cultural treasures like cathedrals, castles, and cooking; natural wonders have been sorely lacking in my itineraries.

I made sure to fix this problem during the road trip my housemates and I took across Spain’s northern coast back in November: after getting coffee in cozy Cangas de Onís and appreciating la España profunda (“deep Spain”) at Covadonga, we drove deeper into the heart of the Picos de Europa National Park. Literally the “Peaks of Europe,” this compact collection of mountains sits at the center of the Cordillera Cantábrica, the east-west mountain range that forms the natural border between Spain’s northern coast and the flat meseta to the south.

But the Picos are more than just a geologic definition; they’ve got some of the most beautiful natural scenery I’ve seen in the country.

Cutting through heavy fog at the Lakes of Covadonga

Picos de Europa National Park
At least I got to recreate that Mac wallpaper
What Enol Lake looks like when it’s not foggy
The higher we drove up into the mountains, the foggier it got, and by the time we finally reached the Lakes of Covadonga, we could barely see the car in front of us. This was a major letdown because we had high hopes for these two glacial lakes floating ethereally in between craggy mountainheads. With clumps of mist hurrying by, we parked the rental car a little ways above the main loop drive and decided to make the most of the foggy day.

Picos de Europa National Park
Hopping to an island
As our cellphones were worthless in such a rural area (14km of switchbacks away from Covadonga), we didn’t want to risk getting lost in the disorienting fog, so we made one big circuit of Enol Lake, hugging the shore and scrambling over rocks and boulders. On a (mostly) dry patch of hillside we stopped for a small snack lunch of empanadas and PB&Js, contemplating the smooth, clear water of the lake in a chilled silence that was broken only by the cacophonous music of cowbells jingling on the opposite shore.

Monday, March 9, 2015

A Guide to Santiago de Compostela for Pilgrims

I finished the Camino de Santiago almost two years ago, arriving in Santiago de Compostela a weary, dazed pilgrim who couldn’t get his bearings straight in the monumental old town. The skies were overcast, the cold weather chilled my shorts-clad legs, and all the plazas in this very gray city seemed to blend together; safe to say, it wasn’t the best of introductions to what would become my favorite place in Spain.

The next morning, I ended up getting the hell outta Dodge by starting the Camino de Fisterra, the extension hike that takes you to Spain’s Lands End on the Atlantic Ocean. Santiago had left a bad taste in my mouth, and I even regretted my decision to transfer up to Galicia for the coming school year.

I feel if I had had a better first impression of Santiago I wouldn’t have left the endpoint of the Way of St. James’ as disappointed and confused as I was. So I’m writing this post today to give future pilgrims something to use when they finish their Camino, so they don’t end up lost, grumpy, and exhausted like I was.

Getting oriented

Pilgrim guide to Santiago de Compostela
An overview map of town
Santiago revolves around the cathedral, so if you can find the church, you can get anywhere—don’t worry! You can walk from one end of the tiny old town to the other in around ten minutes but the rest of the city sprawls to the southwest and the northeast. Zona vieja, the “old zone,” is bounded by the tree-lined Alameda Park on one side and the sunny, picnic-friendly Belvís on the other. The French Way of the Camino enters the old town at its northeast corner via the historic Rúa de San Pedro.

Praza de Galicia is the true center of modern Santiago, a busy square at the southern edge of the old town and the very top of the new town. Called zona nueva or el ensanche, this 70s-era development of admittedly-ugly apartment blocks spreads out down the hillside toward the train station. Santiago’s university is split between Campus Sur, which begins to the west of the Alameda, and Campus Norte, based in the far north of the city.

A mini tour of the four plazas

No fewer than four monumental squares surround Santiago’s cathedral, so it’s easy to understand if you get all turned around. I’ve written an extensive introduction to the cathedral and its plazas, but here’s a condensed version of that “guided tour.”

Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Photo Post: Monte do Viso in Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Monte do Viso, Santiago de Compostela
Hiking through the forest
One of the things I love most about getting to live in Santiago de Compostela is having so many great hiking opportunities available within an hour of my doorstep. I talked about the various hikes you can take from Santiago on the blog a couple months ago, but I thought one of them merited a post in its own right.

While the most popular place to get an amazing, panoramic view of Santiago is from the summit of Monte Pedroso to the northwest of the old town, there’s another mountain to the southeast that offers similar vistas but with zero crowds: Monte do Viso.

Monte do Viso, Santiago de Compostela
Almost at the summit
Snuggled in between the futuristic Cidade da Cultura complex and the pilgrim checkpoint of Monte do Gozo, the barren, rocky summit of Monte do Viso looms over the heavily-trafficked Autopista do Atlántico below. The “viso” part of the name is a Spanish and Galician word that means “height or elevation, high point or place, which you can see and describe a lot of terrain from” (thanks RAE dictionary!). A lonely and unforgiving summit, yes, but a good place from which to take in the expanse of the modern city of Santiago.

Monday, March 2, 2015

Covadonga and the Founding of the Spanish Nation

Covadonga, Spain
Church of Santa María la Real de Covadonga
There are some places in Spain that draw tourists from all over the world—Antoni Gaudí’s still-unfinished Sagrada Família church, the Moorish wonders of the Alhambra, or the Prado Museum in Madrid—but then there are sites that draw a much more local crowd, monuments like Zaragoza’s Pilar Basilica, the royal pantheons where medieval kings and queens are buried, or a monastery where the Spanish language was first written down.

The Royal Site of Covadonga, hidden deep within the mountains of the Picos de Europa National Park, belongs to the latter group of destinations. A small, underwhelming collection of monuments, Covadonga holds a special place in the Spanish national psyche for being the place where Spain was born.

What happened here?

Covadonga, Spain
The strategically-located cave
The year was 722. Eleven years earlier, Muslim Berbers from North Africa had invaded the Iberian peninsula, quickly overrunning the feeble Kingdom of the Visigoths. A new Islamic emirate was established that encompassed almost all of modern-day Spain and Portugal—all except the steep mountains that line the north of the peninsula. It was here that a remnant of the old Visigothic ruling class had fled after King Roderick was killed and the government fell apart. They hid out between the lonely river valleys and rugged mountain peaks that dominate the Asturian countryside.

Call them Christian noblemen, call them barbarian warlords—whoever they were, their leader was named Pelayo. And in 722, having previously refused to pay the jizya tax imposed on non-Muslims, Pelayo and the men under his command engaged in combat against a band of Moorish troops…and won, here in Covadonga. After this military success, Pelayo would move to nearby Cangas de Onís and establish the Kingdom of Asturias, the first Christian realm founded after the Muslim conquest.

Covadonga, Spain
Statue to Pelayo
Muslim chronicles obviously downplay the significance of the Battle of Covadonga, a small skirmish against ragtag mountain men on the caliphate’s fringe. But this battle would enjoy a huge status in the Spanish mythos, because to Christian Spaniards it represented the first battle in the centuries-long struggle to push the Moors out of Spain, a struggle they called the Reconquista because it was an attempt to “re-conquer” the peninsula. Reality was much more complex than this tidy propaganda makes it sound, but that’s a story for another day.

Christian dominion would later expand east to Galicia, south to León, and west to Castilla; i.e., from Asturias, the predecessors of the modern Kingdom of Spain were born. As the saying goes, “Asturias is Spain, and all the rest is conquered land.”

Saturday, February 28, 2015

13 Maps That Explain Galicia

You may not know it, but I am a HUGE nerd when it comes to maps. On family road trips, I would pass the miles by browsing the jumbo-sized road atlas, and I even memorized the regions and provinces of Spain…for fun. So I thought I would combine my love of maps with my love for Galicia, this unique region in Spain’s northwestern corner. I hope you enjoy staring at these thirteen maps as much as I have!

1) Galicia from space

Map of Galicia
(Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Even in the satellite view you can tell how green and forested Galicia really is—a stark contrast from the Castilian meseta or flat plateau to the southeast that is mostly covered in rolling plains.

2) The Roman province of Gallaecia

Map of Galicia
(Source: Wikimedia Commons)
By the 1st century BCE, all of the Iberian peninsula had come under Roman rule, and its northwestern corner belonged to the vast imperial province known as Tarraconensis. Years later, during the administrative reforms of Emperor Diocletian (r. 284-305), this region was cordoned off into a province of its own called Gallaecia, the name that became today’s Galicia. This province spanned all of modern Galicia as well as the Spanish provinces of Asturias and León and northern Portugal down to the city of Porto.

3) The medieval kingdom of Galicia in the 11th century

Map of Galicia
(Source: Wikimedia Commons)
Before the medieval kingdom of Galicia joined forces with León (and later Castilla), it once stretched halfway down the western coast of the peninsula, encompassing much of modern-day Portugal. But in 1143 the County of Portugal broke off from the Kingdom of León, forging the political border between Spain and Portugal that has endured to this day.

What this map shows is that, a thousand years ago, Galicia and Portugal were once the same country and spoke the same language. Nothing happened overnight when a border was drawn just north of Braga, but over the centuries the two dialects began to diverge. The Galician one drifted into the Castilian sphere of influence so much so that today Galician and Portuguese are two separate languages.